The collar appeared during the Renaissance period in the late XV century as a complement of the upper part of the shirt which was usually worn at this time as a night shirt. The collar is therefore a piece of fabric placed at the brim of the shirt neck covering and surrounding the neck.
Originally the collar is set with gathered fabric but this will quickly evolve to become a turned down collar (or inverted collar). By the end of XVI century it becomes a true fashion trend and the collar will constantly change size and form: during the XVII century it will successively get bigger, set upright, spread over the shoulders, shrink and finally get longer ( we hear of stiff collar, turnover collar, flap).
Decorated with lacework the collar becomes a Luxury and refinement item more particularly at the royal court dedicated to nobility and clergy. The inverted collar will be replaced then by the tie imported by the Croatian mercenary in the reign of Louis XVI.
Eventually during the 1600s the set upright collar stiffens. In 1611 and 1612 the collar extremities still lightly bend downwards but in the essential evolution after 1625 the collar is definitely reversed on the shoulders.